Cult military dive watch collecting has a new object of desire. DOXA has joined forces for the first time with Hodinkee to present the DOXA SUB Army 200T For Hodinkee Limited Edition. Limited to just 250 pieces worldwide, this thoughtful release revives one of the Swiss brand’s most elusive historic references, scaling it down for the first time into a svelte 39mm case footprint.
Available exclusively through Watches of Switzerland for $2,000 USD, this edition adapts the striking visual codes of the legendary 1969 “Army” —originally crafted for the support personnel of the Swiss Army’s elite combat divers— into a highly wearable daily tool watch.
Military Roots: The Legacy of the 1969 DOXA Army
In the late 1960s, following the massive success of the orange-dialed SUB 300T, DOXA developed the “Army” in collaboration with the Swiss Army as a dedicated mil-spec dive watch. That elusive model traded the signature bright orange dial for a tan dial framed by a distinctive checkerboard ring and an oil-dipped black case. Produced in extremely low numbers, surviving examples —whose black chemical coating naturally wore down over decades of service to expose the raw steel— have become holy grails among vintage military watch collectors.
This collaborative edition pays visual tribute to that natural weathering. Rather than applying a modern black PVD coating, the 316L stainless steel case features a raw metal finish, offering a poetic nod to the vintage pieces that saw real tactical action.
Refined Proportions: The SUB 200T Architecture
The defining highlight of this release is scaling the Army design into DOXA’s newly introduced SUB 200T case architecture. With a restrained diameter of 39.00mm, a slim thickness of 10.70mm, and a compact lug-to-lug distance of 41.50mm, the overall footprint drops by roughly 10% compared to vintage dimensions. The result is a watch that hugs the wrist effortlessly and slides under a shirt cuff with ease.
For this edition, Hodinkee softened the original stark black accents in favor of a subtle, nuanced color scheme. The dial features a rich, textured sand finish framed by the graphic checkerboard outer track and a color-matched date wheel in “Hodinkee Grey”. This muted grey tone extends to the anodized aluminum 60-minute countdown bezel, where etched markers are filled with warm Old Radium Super-LumiNova, balanced by DOXA’s signature oversized orange hands for immediate legibility.
Swiss Movement and Tactical Accessories
By omitting a Helium Escape Valve to keep the case profile as streamlined as possible, the watch still delivers a robust 200 meters (20 ATM) of water resistance. Powering the watch is a Swiss self-winding mechanical movement decorated by DOXA, beating at 28,800 vph (4.0 Hz) with a 38-hour power reserve.
The timepiece comes fitted with a tan rubber strap featuring a stainless steel folding clasp with a ratcheting wetsuit extension, alongside an additional grey NATO strap.
Technical Specifications: DOXA SUB Army 200T For Hodinkee Limited Edition
| Specification | Official Detail |
|---|---|
| Brand | DOXA |
| Model | SUB Army 200T For Hodinkee Limited Edition |
| Reference | 804.10.031.29-SE17 |
| Limited Edition | 250 numbered pieces |
| Case Material | 316L Stainless Steel. 39.00mm diameter, 10.70mm thickness, 41.50mm lug-to-lug |
| Crystal | Scratch-resistant flat sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating |
| Dial | Textured tan and grey with checkerboard track and Old Radium Super-LumiNova |
| Bezel | Unidirectional anodized grey aluminum with 60-minute countdown scale |
| Movement | Swiss mechanical automatic decorated by DOXA (28,800 vph / 4 Hz, 26 jewels) |
| Power Reserve | 38 hours |
| Water Resistance | 200 meters / 20 ATM |
| Strap | Tan rubber strap with ratcheting wetsuit extension clasp + Additional Grey NATO strap |
| Lug Width | 18mm |
| Price | $2,000 USD (Exclusive to Watches of Switzerland) |
