With the Luminor PAM01735 and the Luminor Forged Titanium PAM01629, Panerai revisits the design language, function, and material codes that shaped the first Luminor watches conceived for the Italian Navy. These models pay tribute to the original intent of the Luminor as a wrist instrument designed for high-risk missions, while reinterpreting those historical features through the contemporary research of the Laboratorio di Idee, the R&D department of the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel, Switzerland.
The result is two imposing 47 mm watches that, while anchored in the iconic Luminor case design of the 1960s, present clearly differentiated executions. These references powerfully reconnect modern-day collectors with the aesthetic and functional signatures that made Panerai a legend of nautical precision. The PAM01735, crafted in classic steel, offers a more traditional interpretation of these founding codes. In contrast, the PAM01629 projects this historic design into a new era through innovative forged titanium, a material brand-new to the Maison.
Panerai Luminor PAM01735 and Luminor Forged Titanium PAM01629
The Luminor PAM01735 and the Luminor Forged Titanium PAM01629 draw inspiration from the iconic reference 6152/1 from the 1960s, whose case shape reflects an evolution guided by purpose and performance, as well as the reliability of the large hand-wound calibers it contained.
With the PAM01735 and PAM01629, the historic architecture of the 6152/1 has been reproduced with remarkable fidelity to its original 47 mm size. The new watches draw reference from the original volumetric geometry, featuring an authentic cushion-shaped case middle and a flat crown-protecting bridge, while achieving a slightly sleeker profile than the original model, ensuring greater comfort on the wrist. The result preserves the structural integrity and proportions of Panerai’s historic design language in new releases adapted for contemporary wear.
Both watches share key specifications that define their vintage character. The 47 mm case is paired with a domed sapphire crystal, a design choice that evokes the visual effect of the PERSPEX used on 1960s Luminor models. This detail allowed the indexes and numerals to remain visible even when viewed at an angle, which was crucial for divers in limited visibility conditions or with busy hands. Today, sapphire replaces PERSPEX, increasing durability without sacrificing the characteristic optical distortion at the edge of the dial—a trait that enthusiasts recognize instantly.
The Luminor PAM01735 offers a studied and deliberate interpretation of this effect. Its 47 mm polished steel case is paired with a matte, grained ivory sandwich dial, evoking the matte surfaces of early references, chosen to reduce reflections and preserve underwater legibility. The brown gradient of its lacquer intensifies toward the perimeter and softens toward the center, in a nod to the gradual color transitions of historic “tropical” dials. Beneath the top plate, beige Super-LumiNova ensures long-lasting visibility in low-light conditions.
Only essential lettering appears on the dial: “Luminor Panerai” at 12 o’clock, evoking the understated typography of the 1960s. The small seconds at 9 o’clock and the vintage-inspired double pencil hands complete the composition. The crown protection bridge features a brushed finish, and the watch is water-resistant to 10 bar (~100 meters).
While the PAM01735 reconnects with the past, the limited-edition Luminor Forged Titanium PAM01629 projects that legacy into the future through innovation in materials research. Panerai presents a watch in forged titanium for the first time in its history.
The case, bezel, crown-protecting bridge, and its lever are crafted from this material, whose intrinsic properties reinforce the watch’s functional character: high strength, elevated corrosion protection, and a weight 40% lighter than steel, ensuring comfort even in an imposing 47 mm diameter. Water resistance reaches 10 bar (~100 meters).
The PAM01629 features a dial with an anthracite sun-brushed finish that interacts with light to highlight the tonal variations of the case, while the crown adopts a matte finish. Beige Super-LumiNova® illuminates the hands and numerals, ensuring optimal visibility in low-light conditions. The first strap is in light beige scamosciato calfskin with matching stitching, secured by a trapezoidal buckle; the second is in black rubber, ideal for marine environments.
Price
For now, we do not know the price of these two watches, as they have just been presented. Panerai
