Double-signed timepieces from the golden age of watchmaking rank among the most coveted creations for discerning collectors. Following the inception of the Double Signed project—launched alongside Japanese atelier Naoya Hida & Co.—ZENITH now crosses the Atlantic to join forces with renowned American independent watchmaker J.N. Shapiro. The result is the extraordinary G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with J.N. Shapiro, a limited edition of just 25 pieces crafted in 18k rose gold.
Hand-Engine-Turned Guilloché ‘Made in California’
The G.F.J. collection (named in honor of Georges Favre-Jacot, founder of ZENITH) was conceived as a contemporary home for the legendary Calibre 135, the most awarded observatory chronometer movement in watchmaking history. In this iteration, the silver dial is manufactured entirely within Joshua Shapiro’s California workshop using traditional rose engines and straight-line machines.
The dial showcases three distinct hand-engraved guilloché patterns in perfect balance: a grain d’orge motif on the outer chapter ring, a basketweave pattern across the center, and Shapiro’s signature Infinity Weave accentuating the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Applied 18k rose gold rings, hour markers, and signature plaques displaying ZENITH | J.N. Shapiro framing the composition.
Damaskeening: Bringing American Horological Heritage to Calibre 135
Unlike previous collaborations focused purely on the dial, J.N. Shapiro extends its artistic fingerprint directly into the movement. Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback of the 39.15mm case, the Calibre 135 bridges feature a distinctive damaskeened finish—a decorative technique historically found in vintage American pocket watches that marries Côtes de Genève with engine turning.
The manual-wind movement operates at a traditional frequency of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph), fitted with a large variable-inertia balance wheel, Breguet overcoil, Charles Fleck’s iconic double-arrow fine-tuning regulator, and a stop-seconds device. Officially COSC chronometer-certified with an expanded 72-hour power reserve, the movement is regulated to a precision rate within ±2 seconds per day.
Limited to just 25 individually numbered pieces, each watch is delivered with three interchangeable straps (brown Cordovan leather, beige nubuck alligator, and black calfskin) with an 18k rose gold pin buckle engraved with the G.F.J. initials. The retail price is set at CHF 68,900.
Technical Specifications
| Feature | Detail |
|---|---|
| Model | ZENITH G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with J.N. Shapiro (Ref. 18.1865-1-0135/01.C215) |
| Limitation | Strictly limited to 25 pieces worldwide |
| Case | 18k Rose Gold (Diameter: 39.15mm | Thickness: 10.5mm | Lug-to-lug: 45.75mm) |
| Dial | Solid silver with three hand-engraved guilloché patterns (Grain d’orge, basketweave, Infinity Weave); applied 18k rose gold double-signed plaques |
| Movement | Manual-wind Calibre 135 with COSC certification and rhodium-plated damaskeened bridges |
| Frequency & Reserve | 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz); 72-hour power reserve (regulated within ±2 sec/day) |
| Water Resistance | 5 ATM (50 meters) |
| Straps | Set of 3 straps included (brown Cordovan, beige nubuck alligator, black calfskin) with engraved rose gold pin buckle |
| Price | CHF 68,900 |
